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Bonjour Mes Amis,
French food lovers, our ship has come in! We just received a pallet of classics & some exciting new irresistibles. My wallet definitely just got a little lighter 🙂 but there’s SO MUCH good stuff.
A man from Paris just came in & said that the shop brought back so many memories for him… If you want to take a virtual trip to Paris & Provence, you need to come in tout de suite. À bientôt, j’espère, Amora Mustard $3.99 150 g; $5.99 440 g
“But Amora is the brand that locals seem to prefer. Shortly after I arrived in Paris and was stocking my petite cuisine, I got on the bus carrying my bulging bag of groceries, filled with basics. I had picked up a hefty jar of Amora mustard, mostly because the glass had graduated lines on it, noting its future use as not a wine glass, but a more practical measuring cup. (Although sometimes in Paris, I find myself using one more than the other.) The woman next to me on the bus looked into my sack, smiled, and said, “Monsieur, c’est très, très fort, mais très bon.” – “It’s very, very strong, but very good.” And I knew I had made the right choice.” -David Leibovitz Teissiere Sirop NEW! Grenadine $10.99 On the edge of the Languedoc, Tavel is a Southern Rhone AOC that can only produce Rose. Extraordinary Rose that is.
Some other ideas: Dress the lentils with less vinaigrette and omit the mustard. When the lentils are cool, dress them right before serving with a very, very good-quality walnut or hazelnut oil and a handful of toasted nuts. Once cool, add a big handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley and more fresh thyme or savory. Add other root vegetables, like celery root or parsnips. Oven roast cubes of them in olive oil with salt and pepper until browned, then add them with the vinaigrette. Add morsels of cooked, smoky bacon. Stir a spoonful of duck fat into the warm lentils. Crumble coarse chunks of fresh goat cheese into the room temperature lightly-dressed lentils. This is particularly good drizzled with walnut or hazelnut oil. |
Sunday, Jun 28 2015
Uncategorized 10:24 pm
Sunday, Jun 28 2015
Uncategorized 10:23 pm
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Bonjour Mes Amis,
It truly feels like summer as I’m about to harvest the first pods of my fava bean crop tonight! Tomatoes still look to be weeks away.
It’s my ‘Friday night’, so I plan on grilling some lamb chops, & set up a table by the lavender, and maybe even splurge on a bottle of Tempier rose which came in today. À bientôt, j’espère, CLASSIC HAM & GRUYERE CREPE WITH A TOUCH OF DIJON from Crepes: 50 Savory & Sweet Recipes byMartha Holmberg $19.95 One of my favorite memories from my first trip to France was tucking into warm crepes & drinking cold cider alongside the canals of Marais Poitevin, France’s “Green Venice”. This marshland is criss-crossed with canals where tourists are rowed in traditional barques. And those canals are lined with sidewalk creperies–heaven! Makes 1 filled crepe 1 tsp creme fraiche In a small bowl, stir together the creme fraiche & mustard; set aside. Lay the crepe presentation-side down in a small skillet & heat over medium-high heat until you feel the crepe is getting warm, just a few seconds. Sprinkle the cheese over the crepe, lay the ham in the center, and sprinkle the walnuts and capers (if using) over the ham & cheese. As soon as the cheese begins to melt, fold the bottom, top, and then the sides of the crepe over the filling toward the center so that the filling is enclosed & you have a flattish rectangular package. Slide th crepe onto a plate seam-side down, spread the creme fraiche-mustard mixture on the top, and serve right away. If you’re making several of these crepes, you can slide the folded crepe onto a baking sheet. Once you’ve made all the crepes, reheat them for a few minutes in a 400 degree oven. Francine Crepe batter mix $10.25 Makes 40 Crepes, no resting required. 1 sachet my preparation for dough Francine Pancakes 1) In a bowl, pour the milk and then the bag contents while stirring with a whisk. Cheese of the Week: An ancient AOC protected cheese from Auvergne, considered the grandfather or cheddar. Jambon de Paris $14.99 lb Gerard et Philibert Talmard 2014, Macon Uchizy $11.99 This Chardonnay might just become my new house white. Absolutely lovely, unoaked, fresh & snappy with the type of traditional labeling I love. Lemongrass, citrus in spades–pure & refreshing. A direct import steal! Fabien Collonge L’Aurore des Cotes 2013, Chroubles $14.99 Beaujolais has gotten a bad rap because of Beaujolais Nouveau & Fabien Collonge is a new generation winemaker who wants to change that. Of all the 10 cru villages in Beaujolais, Chiroubles has some of the highest vineyards & lowest temperatures. Some say Chroubles is ‘the most Beaujolais of all crus.’ Manuel says he can’t wait to enjoy this new arrival with some Rosette de Lyon. Tempier Rose 2014, Bandol $40 4 bottles available |
Sunday, Jun 14 2015
Uncategorized 11:23 pm
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Bonjour Mes Amis,
If you’re like me, dinner this week has been lots of salads (with cheese & olives to start) eaten en plein airwith a glass of rose.
À bientôt, j’espère, Makes about 1/3 cup, enough for 2 to 3 salads
fresh herbs, if desired 1. Use a fork to mix together the vinegar, salt, shallots, and mustard in a large saladier (large salad bowl), stirring until the salt is dissolved. (French people like a lot of mustard in their dressing; I suggest you start with 1 tsp & add more to taste.) 2. Stir in the oil briskly until fully mixed. I try to make the dressing within a few hours of serving. If you wish to add fresh herbs, it’s best to chop and mix them in shortly before serving so they retain their flavor. Aside from not using balsamic vinegar in salad dressings, another astuce is to use freshly-ground black pepper, which is best added when tossing the salad with the dressing. Storage: This dressing will keep for about eight hours at room temperature. If you want to make it farther in advance, it’s best to add the shallots closer to serving so they don’t lose their verve. Olympic Provisions Kasekrainer $8.99 Brand new & incredibly delicious. Modeled after the Austrian street food, these apple wood smoked pork sausages contain nuggets of Emmenthaler cheese. We grilled some up last night and our guest swooned–perfect with potato salad & some Andre Laurent sauerkraut with bacon & duck fat. Note the mustard sampler… Andre Laurent Couer de Chou (Gourmet Style Sauerkraut), Blignicourt $6.99 Olympic Provisions Saucisson aux Noisettes $9.99 Oregon hazelnuts, sea salt, Carlton Farms pork. That’s it. Sometimes simple is best. Olympic Provisions Salami Etna $29.99 lb Without a doubt, my new favorite salami: Sicilian-style with pistachios, sea salt & lemon zest. Olympic Provisions has outdone themselves with this creation. Zoe’s Applewood Smoked Uncured Bacon Sale $3.99 (reg. $7.99) In our freezer… CHEESE OF THE WEEK ROSE SIX PACKS $75 (includes tax & Paris Grocery wine tote)
CORSICAN WINES SPEAK THEIR OWN LANGUAGE Domaine Vico 2012, $17.99 The New York Times writes, “Twin estates from the center of Corsica; good values from Vico, exceptional vermentinus from Venturi.” Domaine Maestracci E Prove Rouge 2010, $21.99 The New York Times writes, “Lovely, graceful blended reds and vermentinus.” Domaine Comte Abbatucci Vine de France Rouge Frais Imperial 2012, $29.99 |
Sunday, Jun 14 2015
Uncategorized 11:21 pm
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Bonjour Mes Amis,
If you asked me, “What was the most memorable meal you’ve enjoyed at a Pacific NW restaurant?” I wouldn’t need to think long. Definitely the Willows Inn on Lummi Island.
The June/July issue of Saveur pays tribute to Blaine Wetzel, a young chef destined to return to his home state after working at the ‘World’s Best Restaurant’ Noma in Copenhagen. Wetzel took everything he gleaned from working under Renee Redzepi and now applies it to his native ground. I hope this week’s recipe rates a few stars in your own kitchen… Buy the best pork chops you can afford & one of our good bottles of verjus. À bientôt, j’espère, VERJUS-BRINED PORK CHOPS WITH MARINATED LEEKS from Saveur We sell a few types of Verjus (one from France, one from Oregon wine country), a sadly underrated pantry staple. The word verjus refers to the pressing of high-acid, low-sugar grapes that winemakers thin from the vines just when the crop is beginning to ripen. ‘Verjus’ comes from the French termvert jus, literally “green juice.”Gentler than vinegar, its combination of sweet & tart adds an extra layer of complexity in sauces & marinades. Gentler than vinegar, Verjus’s combination of sweet & tart adds an extra layer of complexity in sauces & marinades. Bon appetit! 1/2 cup whole juniper berries 2 cups verjus
1/3 cup plus 2 Tbs kosher salt, plus more to taste Toast juniper berries in a small skillet over medium-high, swirling, until fragrant, 5 minutes. Transfer to a food processor & blend with verjus, 1/2 cup salt, the sugar, parsley, marjoram, and 1/2 cup water until smooth. Pour into a large bowl and add pork chops, Cover and refrigerate at least 12 hours or overnight. Meanwhile, marinate the leeks: Stir remaining 2 Tbs salt, olive oil, and vinegar until emulsified. Add leeks, cover with plastic wrap, and marinate 2 hours. Drain pork chops & set aside for 30 minutes to come to room temperature.; reserve the marinade. Build a medium heat fire in a charcoal grill or heat a gas grill to medium. Grill the pork chops, turning & basting every 5 minutes with reserved marinade, until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reads 140, 40-45 minutes. Trabsfer the pork chops to a cutting board & let rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, remove leeks from vinaigrette & arrange on a sheet of foil. Pour 2 Tbs vinaigrette over leeks, and then fold and close foil into a packet; reserve remaining vinaigrette. Place packet on grill & cook until leeks are soft & caramelized, 8-10 minutes. Open packet & transfer leeks to serving platter; discard foil. Drizzle leeks with some of the remaining vinaigrette & season with pepper. Slice pork chops & serve with grilled leeks. CHEESE OF THE WEEK: “Of all the triple creams I’ve had in my travels, Delice d’Argental is possibly the most luxurious cow’s milk cheese I’ve ever eaten, beating out its similarly named and textured cousin, Delice de Bourgogne. (It might even surpass my longtime favorite, Brillat Savarin.) The velvet qualities of this cheese are made possible by the addition of crème fraîche, providing not only an extra silky mouthfeel, but a seductive tang that plays on your lips like a careless whisper.” -Stephanie, Stiavetti, Serious Eats Jill Butler Design Dipping Dishes $5.99 We just got in these super-sweet ceramic dishes. I may buy a few just to put underneath my olive oil bottles as well as for serving. Chateau d’Estoublon Picholine Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Vallée des Baux-de-Provence $23.99 This Provencal olive oil is packed with Mediterranean flavor. All the olives on this estate are hand-harvested, & while the AOC requires fruit to be pressed within 3 days of harvest, Chateau d’Estoublon does this within a day of picking. Ultra-flavorful, fiery & pungent–I like the suggestion to use this to spike your tartare. Villa des Anges Old Vines Rose 2014, Vin de Pays d’Oc $9.99 As far as I’m concerned, the more $10 dry rose’s I have to choose from, the better. Villa des Anges is the project of Jeff Carrel & Jacqueline Menard de Ginestous, who envisioned a winery situated in the ruins of an ancient Roman Villa. This is pale pink with light fruit, strawberry essence, & a dry demeanor. Perfect with a little bowl of olives, cheese & smoked cured ham. The angels won’t steer us wrong at this price! Le Paradou Rose 2014, Vin de France$11.99 Made by two young brothers whose family makes wine for venerable Chateau Pesquier. 100% Cinsault, this is almost too easy to drink. “The project started in the Luberon, but over time the Chaudière brothers decided to avoid the rigours of the AOP to be completely free to create fresh and sexy wines.” Commanderie de la Bargemone Rose 2014, Cotes de Provence $14.99 Triennes Rose 2014, Mediterrainee $16.99 The Rose with the wild boar on it… Cinsault is the star of this near-perfect rose. Flavorful without being over-ripe, showing minerality from the limestone soil. Nicole Chanrion Domaine de la Voute des Crozes 2013, Cote de Brouilly $24.99 |
Sunday, Jun 14 2015
Uncategorized 11:20 pm
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Bonjour Mes Amis,
Happy Memorial Day… OPEN ALL WEEKEND Saturday 10 am to 6 pm Years ago, I think one of the most popular recipes I put in the Spanish Table newsletter was for a creation called the Moorish mini-slider (email me for the recipe) which won me an Iron Chefish burger cook-off on Camano Island. But I think the recipe below is destined to become a new classic…
À bientôt, j’espère, Grilled Merguez Sandwiches with Caramelized Onions, Manchego, and Harissa Aioli adapted from a recipe by Joshua Bouzel, contributor at Serious Eats 1/3 cup aioli Mix aioli and harissa together in a small bowl. Set aside. Light one chimney full of charcoal (or set gas grill at medium-high.) When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and arrange coals on one side of the charcoal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil the grilling grate. Grill merguez over hot side of grill until browned all over and cooked through, 4 to 6 minutes total. Transfer to plate. Slice baguette into four 6-inch portions and halve each portion lengthwise. Brush cut side of each baguette with oil. Grill baguette over hot side of grill, cut side down, until lightly browned, about 1 minute. Remove to plate. Top bottom half of baguette with 2 merguez links, about 2 tablespoons of caramelized onions, manchego cheese, and a few sprigs of cilantro. Spread harissa aioli on top half of baguettes and place on top of each sandwich. Place sandwiches on cool side of grill, cover, and cook until cheese has melted, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate or tray and serve immediately. HOLIDAY WEEKEND WINES Le Pigeoulet en Provence 2011, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse $16.99 The Brunier family’s holdings include Vieux Telegraphe (perhaps the most celebrated cru of the Southern Rhone.) This affordable, everyday Vin de Pays is fresh, rich & fruity and terroir-driven. 35-year-old vines grown in rich clay soil, Le Pigeoulet comes from the foothills of the noble La Crau plateau. Grapes are grown on the warm flats around Chateauneuf de Pape and the cooler foothills of Mt Ventoux. Hand-harvested Grenache with a small balance of Syrah, Carignan & Cinsault–silky & clean with the essence of fresh strawberries. This wine loves grilled merguez… Domaine de Reuilly “Les Fossiles” 2013, Reuilly $25.99 Reuilly is experiencing a renaissance… After being ravaged by phylloxera in the late 19th century, Denis Jamain’s family played a major role in the bright future of the region. Kimmeridgian limestone forms a bridge between the Loire Valley & Chablis in Burgundy, so you get what Kermit Lynch calls “Sancerre grown at Chablis”. This is stunning Sauvignon Blanc. Chateau de Campuget Tradition Rose, Costieres de Nimes 3 liter Box $26.99 9 boxes left in stock as I write this–and I’m already hearing rave reviews!!! Henriot Rose Brut Champagne $68 Doesn’t reading this review make you want a glass right now? CHEESE OF THE WEEK: Yes, these days Manchego can be a dime a dozen, Some of my favorites include: El Trigal 1 Year $21.99 lb |
Sunday, Jun 14 2015
Uncategorized 11:20 pm
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Bonjour Mes Amis,
I’m going to make this short & sweet as it’s been a busy day!
Come in for a “box of love” & a taste of Tete de Moine… À bientôt, j’espère, CRÈME VICHYSSOISE by Mimi Thorisson This year is a gardening first for me…I grew my own leeks. They are proudly standing like verdant flagpoles in the garden, & I’ll need to harvest them soon to make room for tomatoes. We are growing our own potatoes as well, but they won’t be ready until later in the summer. Ingredients: (serves 6) 7 leeks, (white bulb) sliced into rings Slice onions, potatoes (quartered) and leeks (into fine rings). In a large pot melt butter over low heat, add onions and fry for 3 minutes. Add the potatoes and leek and continue frying on a low heat for 10 minutes. Deglaze with the white wine, reduce for 2 minutes, then add the chicken or vegetable stock. Add thyme, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Stir well, and when it starts to boil, lower heat, cover pot and continue to cook for 20 minutes. EXCITING NEW WINE ARRIVALS Chateau de Campuget Tradition Rose 2014, Costieres de Nimes 3 liter Box $26.99 Kelsey’s Mon Ami’s favorite Rose… Oisly & Thesee ‘Les Bruyeres’ Sauvignon & Chardonnay 2013, Cheverny $9.99 Chateau Roland le Garde Tradition 2010, Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux $14.99 This direct-import steal is everything you could want in an affordable Bordeaux. Two big thumbs up for this organic Right Bank bottling. Spicy green pepper & sultry black plums–this has grilling season written all over it. CHEESE OF THE WEEK Tete de Moine $19.99 lb (reg. $30.99) We had a few wheels of this in the fridge, so I decided to make it a price you couldn’t resist. This cheese is right at it’s peak–nutty, sweet & fruity, with a little pleasant beefiness from the washed rind. From the mountains of Jura, where monks taught local farmers how to make this cheese–named after the little bald patch on a monk’s head 🙂 Pair with an Alsatian white. |
Sunday, Jun 14 2015
Uncategorized 11:14 pm
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Bonjour Mes Amis,
Well, looks like we’ll have some amazing weather for Mother’s Day!
Don’t miss the Mother’s Day classic–the Pike Place Flower Festival: Saturday,May 9 – Sunday, May 10, 2015 More than 40 flower farmers will line the cobblestone street of the Market, plus there’s a card-making booth for the kids. Join us for our next wine tasting, tomorrow, Friday May 8th from 4:30 to 6 pm. We’re thinking Provencal Rose & Bordeaux for some grillin’ & chillin’ when it’s 77 degrees on Saturday! À bientôt, j’espère, MOTHER’S DAY GIFTS Le Cadeaux Melamine Tableware $8 – $27 This stuff is incredible because it emulates Mediterranean ceramics, but is made of durable dishwasher safe Melamine. That means you can throw it in your picnic basket, take it on your boat or camping, use it for parties with no worry. Jacquard Francais Tea Towels $16 – $23 The term ‘tea towels’ came from British households where only fine linen was used to dry expensive tea service pieces. Made in France since 1888, these towels are simply gorgeous. 100% combed cotton in vibrant colors–they can also double as place mats. I was at a friend’s house for dinner & hers were over a decade old–I marveled at how well the colors held up & how soft they became over the years. These are something you will want displayed in your kitchen, not just stowed in a drawer. Michel Design Works Pot Holders $7.99 These have been flying out of here, and for $8 you can see why. 100% quilted natural cotton, machine washable. Kusmi Tea Brunch Assortment $25.99 Rose Six Pack Clos Cibonne Cuvée Spéciale des Vignettes Rose 2012, Cru Classe Cotes de Provence $28 You read that right–my favorite Rose in the shop is a 2012 & let me tell you why. Clos Cibonne began in 1797, but in the late 1990’s the current generation of the family completely renovated the cellars. Clos Cibonne’s focus is Tibouren, a native Provencal varietal. Their Cuvee Speciale is sourced from their oldest vines, situated 800 meters from the sea. The wine is first fermented in stainless steel, and then aged under ‘fleurette’ for 1 year in 100 year old foudres. This rose is anything but tired–it has serious stuffing. Pair with bouillabaisse. “Light, bright orange. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes dried red fruits, orange pith, smoky minerals and toasted nuts, with a spicy nuance building with air. Fleshy and dry on the palate, offering intense cherry and bitter rhubarb flavors and a touch of lavender pastille. Finishes with outstanding energy and mineral-driven persistence, the floral note repeating strongly.” -93 Points, Josh Raynolds, IWC Poterie Not Freres Cassoles $149 TWO LEFT Poterie Not Freres is THE source of authentic cassoles. Made by the Not family since 1830, using local clay from Gascony. Like making a paella in the traditional pan to achieve socarrat, a true cassole will produce the best crust–a key component to authentic Cassoulet, aka ‘the secret of the seven skins.’
“A traditional cassole has a tapered shape that gives it an extremely high surface area to volume ratio. More room for evaporation means better skin formation and better browning.” -J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, Culinary Director at Serious Eats WE LOVE MACARONS!!! This week’s flavors: Vanilla Bean And for the chef, we have a huge selection of Macaron cookbooks & fillings which make for a sweet gift. Le Grand Lou Bren $29.99 lb Affineur Rodolphe Le Meunier says to think of this as sheep’s milk Saint Nectaire. Made by a handful of shepherds who broke away from supplying milk for Roquefort. Janet Fletcher, one of my favorite cheesemongers waxed so poetic on this new cheese that I had to bring it in: Julia Child’s Quiche Lorraine from Mastering the Art of French Cooking Volume Two $60 1 single-crust pie shell, well chilled Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line the pie crust with aluminum foil and fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake in the preheated oven for 8 to 9 minutes. Then remove the foil and pie weights and cook for 2 or 3 minutes more, until the shell is starting to color. Remove from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees F. Meanwhile, prepare the filling. Over medium heat, cook the sliced bacon in a skillet until cooked and lightly brown. Remove and let place on a plate lined with paper towels. Once cooled slightly, evenly scatter over the bottom of the partially-baked pastry shell. Next, beat the cream (and/or half-and-half) with the eggs, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, until well blended. Pour over the bacon slices into the hot pastry shell, then sprinkle the butter dots on top. Bake in the 375 degree oven for 30 minutes, until the quiche has puffed up and browned. Let cool slightly; serve warm or cold. |