Paris Grocery News 10/9 Sunday, Oct 10 2010 

We love you, Cab Francs. No matter what they say.

Wine @ PG

This week we’re featuring some fantastic values in Loire Valley reds. These are all 100 percent Cabernet Franc, a grape that is quite popular in France, especially in the Loire Valley, but is better known stateside as a grape used in blends, particularly those from Bordeaux. Depending on production practices, the grape can produce fruitier or more herbal/vegetative flavors than other varietals. It’s also noted for a certain floral quality, especially violets. Some palates, unused to these qualities, may find themselves off-put by a Cab Franc wine, but we think they’re worth getting to know better. They are typically medium-bodied and easy to drink , but with a cerebral, what-is-that-exactly quality. And at  these prices, you can’t go wrong.

Sables Blonds Touraine Rouge 2009 ($9.99)

This Cabernet Franc is loaded with minerals and notes of earth and dark berries. It’s juicy and lightly tannic: perfect for flank steak. We liked this wine so much that we brought in a case of it to compete with our larger buys of Côtes du Rhone and Bordeaux; like those more typical options, this is one to grab for any simple cold-weather dish.

Saumur Rouge “Les Epinats” 2009 ($9.99)

This Cab Franc uses grapes from a single vineyard that is abundant with silex, giving the wine a dense backbone of minerality. A lovely transparent ruby color in the glass, with delicate aromas of violets. Bright and lively on the palate, with a hint of cherries and licorice. Just enough grip and a supremely balanced finish:  this wine really offers bang for your buck.

Bourgueil  Rouge “Beauregard” 2009 ($10.99)

We tasted this directly after the Saumur, and while it had some similarities in terms of texture, its flavors were slightly more complex. Dark notes of blackberry brush up against something like pencil shavings. Bourgueil is known for being a bit more rustic than its neighbor Chinon, but we sort of like that: this wine really sings when paired with the right foods. The bright acidity and herbal notes of tarragon make it a natural with lamb sausages.

Cheese @ PG

Rogue River Blue

This cow’s milk cheese from Sonoma is aged for one year in “Roquefort-like” caves. It has vibrant hints of hazelnuts and sweet pine, with a clean, woodsy finish. Each wheel is wrapped in grape leaves and soaked in pear brandy, giving the cheese a supremely creamy texture.

$38.99/lb

$9.75/quarter lb

Fleur d’Aunis

This washed rind semi-soft cow’s milk cheese from Charentes-Poitou is rich, creamy, and slightly nutty. The rind is brushed with Pineau des Charentes, a fortified wine made with Cognac. A easy cheese for snacking, with just enough complexity.

$15.99/lb

$3.99/quarter lb

Folie Bergere

A fresh goat cheese from Belgium with a savory coating of herbs. The dense texture is similar to a dry ricotta, and it has a less mild tang than other chèvres. Earthy and delicious!

$32.99/lb

$8.25/quarter lb

Back in stock: we have fresh wheels of Morbier (the washed rind classic with a center line of ash), Cantalet Dore (the “French cheddar” that’s so good with apples), and Gabietou (the dreamy cow’s and sheep’s milk cheese created by Herve Mons).

Craves @ PG

Candied Orange Peel Strips

Imported from France, these have a fantastic balance of sweet and tangy flavors and a delightfully toothsome texture. Packed in a touch of syrup to retain moisture and freshness. In addition to myriad baking and confectionary uses, candied orange peel strips make a fantastic accompaniment to cheese or dark chocolate. People have also been known to just eat them, one by one, until they are all gone: but these tales may just be the stuff of sweet tooth legend.

Feed Your Mind @ PG

Around my French Table by Dorie Greenspan

This attractive and rather huge book promises over 300 recipes from Greenspan’s classic “French dinner table” repertoire . The book is organized extremely well, with nibbles, vegetables, and desserts getting just as much attention as beef, chicken, and seafood. The recipes are surprisingly simple. In fact, Julie Child once told Greenspan,  “You write recipes just the way I do.” High praise from a true master!

 

Thanks for reading, see you soon!
Rachel

and
Steve Winston and Sharon Baden
Owners, Paris Grocery

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Paris Grocery News 4/8 Thursday, Apr 8 2010 

One of our favorite parts of this job (besides the yummy free samples we get to take home) is advocating for misunderstood or overlooked products. It’s easy for things to get lost in translation or misrepresented when they leave their native home. Beaujolais wine is often dismissed outside of France, and we often are left wondering why. The Gamay grape flourishes in the mild climate and gravelly soil of the region, resulting in a delicious array of ethereal wines. Perhaps they are misunderstood it because their appeal lies in a certain subtlety and finesse, whereas wines produced and consumed in the States tend to be powerful and brash. Beaujolais’ lightness and grace, however, is what makes them ideal for pairing with food– they match well with fish and fowl alike, and elevate the flavors of sauces, stuffings, and side dishes. It is easy to mistake a dark color and heavy body for complexity, but Beaujolais’ brilliant rubies hold incredible length and a fusion of aromas and flavors that are earthy, floral, and fruity. With the weather turning slowly towards warmth and sunshine, it the perfect time to explore (or rediscover) these undervalued wines, especially since they are available for truly stellar prices!

C'est beau, le Beaujolais !

2009 Pierre Chermette Beaujolais Primeur ($14.99)

The ultimate food wine: this is not a soda pop-style Beaujolais! The Chermettes were among the pioneers of sustainable viticulture in the Beaujolais and their wines are made in a traditional way. Using natural yeasts and little or no fermentation, Chermette Beaujolais Primeur is a true expression of terroir. Unlike many Beaujolais Nouveaus, it improves with bottle age.

2007 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Beaujolais-Villages ($11.99)

Josh Reynolds said, “Fans of graceful, tangy, minerally Beaujolais will find plenty to like from both 2007 and 2008,” and this bottle is a fine example. The great-grandchildren of Joseph Drouhin still run the centuries-old winery. For their Beaujolais-Villages, the grapes are hand-harvested and some of them undergo carbonic fermentation. The resulting wine is graceful, with a refined, highly aromatic nose and silky tannins. Bright red berries, cherries, and peonies dominate, with the fresh fruit persisting on the finish. A convivial wine, ideal for dinners with Cornish hen and flavorful dishes, this wine is also a winner on its own.

2008 Terres Dorées Beaujolais “L’Ancien” ($16.99)

Domaine des Terres Dorées is located just north of Lyon, in the area known as “The Land of the Golden Stones.” The founder and winemaker, Jean-Paul Brun, is a relentless advocate for winemaking à l’ancienne. While Beaujolais has come to be associated with a “fruit candy” genre of winemaking, Brun makes old-style Gamay wines. He does not add sugars to his wine and uses only indigenous yeasts for his fermentation, instead of the lab-developed strain popular in the region for its banana and candy aromas. This Beaujolais is 100% old-vine Gamay, delicate and pure, showing excellent balance, freshness, and acidity. Mineral-driven, with bright cherry, cranberry, and sweet spices melding into a lengthy finesse. A remarkable value: consider it a poor man’s Burgundy!
90 points Wine Advocate

NEW CHEESES AND FOODS AT PARIS GROCERY

We are thrilled to be carrying two kinds of charcuterie from renowned charcuterie maker Creminelli. We can’t pick a favorite so you’ll have to try them both!

Salame Tartufo

This award-winning truffle salame is the perfect example of excess being just enough. The delicate aroma of truffles allows the full pork flavor to shine through. $9.25/ quarter lb

Wild Boar Salame

Made from wild boar meat and pork belly, this Creminelli salame is seasoned with wine-soaked cloves and juniper berries. Lean yet silky, with a full, distinctive flavor, it lends an exotic touch to your recipes and charcuterie platters. $10.75/ quarter lb

Now in Stock!

Fabrique Delices Cured Duck Salami, Gabietou (raw cow’s and sheep’s milk cheese), Boursin Cheese in Roasted Red Pepper and other flavors, Griottines (morello cherries in brandy), and Scharffen Berger Roasted Cocoa Nibs.