Paris Grocery News 4/8 Thursday, Apr 8 2010 

One of our favorite parts of this job (besides the yummy free samples we get to take home) is advocating for misunderstood or overlooked products. It’s easy for things to get lost in translation or misrepresented when they leave their native home. Beaujolais wine is often dismissed outside of France, and we often are left wondering why. The Gamay grape flourishes in the mild climate and gravelly soil of the region, resulting in a delicious array of ethereal wines. Perhaps they are misunderstood it because their appeal lies in a certain subtlety and finesse, whereas wines produced and consumed in the States tend to be powerful and brash. Beaujolais’ lightness and grace, however, is what makes them ideal for pairing with food– they match well with fish and fowl alike, and elevate the flavors of sauces, stuffings, and side dishes. It is easy to mistake a dark color and heavy body for complexity, but Beaujolais’ brilliant rubies hold incredible length and a fusion of aromas and flavors that are earthy, floral, and fruity. With the weather turning slowly towards warmth and sunshine, it the perfect time to explore (or rediscover) these undervalued wines, especially since they are available for truly stellar prices!

C'est beau, le Beaujolais !

2009 Pierre Chermette Beaujolais Primeur ($14.99)

The ultimate food wine: this is not a soda pop-style Beaujolais! The Chermettes were among the pioneers of sustainable viticulture in the Beaujolais and their wines are made in a traditional way. Using natural yeasts and little or no fermentation, Chermette Beaujolais Primeur is a true expression of terroir. Unlike many Beaujolais Nouveaus, it improves with bottle age.

2007 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Beaujolais-Villages ($11.99)

Josh Reynolds said, “Fans of graceful, tangy, minerally Beaujolais will find plenty to like from both 2007 and 2008,” and this bottle is a fine example. The great-grandchildren of Joseph Drouhin still run the centuries-old winery. For their Beaujolais-Villages, the grapes are hand-harvested and some of them undergo carbonic fermentation. The resulting wine is graceful, with a refined, highly aromatic nose and silky tannins. Bright red berries, cherries, and peonies dominate, with the fresh fruit persisting on the finish. A convivial wine, ideal for dinners with Cornish hen and flavorful dishes, this wine is also a winner on its own.

2008 Terres Dorées Beaujolais “L’Ancien” ($16.99)

Domaine des Terres Dorées is located just north of Lyon, in the area known as “The Land of the Golden Stones.” The founder and winemaker, Jean-Paul Brun, is a relentless advocate for winemaking à l’ancienne. While Beaujolais has come to be associated with a “fruit candy” genre of winemaking, Brun makes old-style Gamay wines. He does not add sugars to his wine and uses only indigenous yeasts for his fermentation, instead of the lab-developed strain popular in the region for its banana and candy aromas. This Beaujolais is 100% old-vine Gamay, delicate and pure, showing excellent balance, freshness, and acidity. Mineral-driven, with bright cherry, cranberry, and sweet spices melding into a lengthy finesse. A remarkable value: consider it a poor man’s Burgundy!
90 points Wine Advocate

NEW CHEESES AND FOODS AT PARIS GROCERY

We are thrilled to be carrying two kinds of charcuterie from renowned charcuterie maker Creminelli. We can’t pick a favorite so you’ll have to try them both!

Salame Tartufo

This award-winning truffle salame is the perfect example of excess being just enough. The delicate aroma of truffles allows the full pork flavor to shine through. $9.25/ quarter lb

Wild Boar Salame

Made from wild boar meat and pork belly, this Creminelli salame is seasoned with wine-soaked cloves and juniper berries. Lean yet silky, with a full, distinctive flavor, it lends an exotic touch to your recipes and charcuterie platters. $10.75/ quarter lb

Now in Stock!

Fabrique Delices Cured Duck Salami, Gabietou (raw cow’s and sheep’s milk cheese), Boursin Cheese in Roasted Red Pepper and other flavors, Griottines (morello cherries in brandy), and Scharffen Berger Roasted Cocoa Nibs.

Paris Grocery News 3/4 Thursday, Mar 4 2010 

We’ll happily sneeze our way through this early touch of spring, as long as we have some yummy new items to snack on and cook with. Here are some of our much-anticipated new and returning items:

French lavender and tarragon. Packed out here at Paris Grocery into 8 ounce containers. Tarragon plays a starring role in a classic Béarnaise sauce. Try the lavender on a leg of roasted spring lamb, or sprinkled on a log of fresh chèvre.

Pamplie Salted Butter.From Poitou-Charentes, a region famous for its dairy products. Pamplie is preferred by chefs for its firm consistency, pale color, and rich flavor with hints of hazelnuts. Made with fleur de sel from Île de Ré, this butter just gets better.

Tome d’Acquitaine is back! This is one of our absolute favorite cheeses. The beautiful snow-white interior of this washed-rind goat’s milk cheese will catch your eye. Washed in Sauternes by the respected affineur Jean d’Alos, it displays delicately balanced fruit and floral notes.

Abbaye de Tamié cheese makes a stunning debut. We asked Olivier to bring us a fantastic example of a monastery cheese, and he did not disappoint. The monks of Tamié have been producing this cow’s milk cheese since the year 1135. We think they are getting the hang of it- this cheese is marvelously creamy, almost spreadable, with a pungent fruitiness and undertones of sweet hay and fresh cream.

WINES

2008 André Neveu Sancerre “Le Grand Fricambault” ($24.99) André Neveu’s vineyards are located in Chavignol, on the silex soil of Sancerre’s hillsides. Highly aromatic, his exquisite Sauvignon Blanc reflects this flinty terrain. Bone-dry and chalky, it exudes aromas of citrus, grapefruit, and limestone. Tart, concentrated, and marvelous with Crottin de Chavignol, the local goat’s milk cheese.

2008 Terres Dorées Beaujolais “L’Ancien” ($16.99) Traditional Beaujolais wines have amazing fruit and depth, and this wine really overdelivered at a recent tasting. Winemaker Jean-Paul Brun is a relentless advocate for winemaking à l’ancienne and seeks to make old-style Gamay wines. He does not add sugars to his wine and uses only indigenous yeasts for his fermentation, instead of the lab-developed strain popular in the region for its banana and candy aromas. This Beaujolais is 100% old-vine Gamay, delicate and pure, showing excellent balance, freshness and acidity. Mineral-driven, with bright cherry, cranberry and sweet spices melding into a lengthy finesse. A remarkable value! 90 points Wine Advocate

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