Sunday, Feb 22 2015

Paris Grocery seattle February 19, 2015 Bonjour Mes Amis, This week I was inspired by the region of Chablis, a sleepy town that is the “Golden Gate” of Burgundy. Chablis is the land of Dijon mustard, Epoisses & Gougeres–mais oui! I recently put together a cheese plate for Virginie Blackmoor of French Truly, a native of southeast France who runs a lovely series of immersion events here in Seattle. “Through role-play, conversations, games, movies, documentaries (all of these with food and drinks), lunch specials and field trips, we have so much fun, we forget we are working.” Check out her upcoming “Become a little bit French 4 week course!” where you practice going shopping explore French poetry learn what to pack, how to make travel accomodations how to ask for directions, check into a hotel à la vôtre ! Catherine Reynolds Escarole Salad with Duck Confit, Comté, and Walnuts from Saveur The latest issue of Saveur has a feature article on the wine & food of Chablis. This recipe originally comes from winemakers Alice and Olivier de Moor, and Saveur substitutes duck confit for duck gizzards. SERVES 4-6 INGREDIENTS 2 (5-oz.) confit duck legs 2 tbsp. white wine vinegar 1½ tbsp. Dijon mustard ½ small shallot, minced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ⅓ cup olive oil 1 large head escarole, leaves torn into bite-size pieces, rinsed, and dried 4 oz. Comté cheese, cut into ¼” pieces ⅓ cup walnuts, toasted INSTRUCTIONS Heat duck legs in a 12″ skillet over medium until fat is rendered and duck is crisp, about 15 minutes. Transfer duck to a cutting board and let cool, then coarsely shred meat, discarding bones; reserve fat for another use, if you like. Whisk vinegar, mustard, shallot, salt, and pepper in a bowl. While whisking, slowly drizzle in oil until vinaigrette is emulsified. Arrange escarole on a serving platter; top with shredded duck, cheese, and walnuts. Drizzle with vinaigrette and toss to combine, or serve with vinaigrette on the side. WINE PAIRING Jean Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis 2013 $24.99 The best Chablis grows on a prehistoric sea of fossilized shells–Chablis is Chardonnay with an undeniable sense of place. The Droin’s have been producing wine in Chablis for over 400 years, and their style is to strive for absolute transparency in their wine. This is a gorgeous Chablis that combines buttery richness with racy chalk notes. Serve with the above salad, oysters or Epoisses. CHEESE OF THE WEEK Abondance, Haut-Savoie $19.99 lb This classic raw milk cheese from Savoie takes its name from the Abondance breed of cow. The cheese is made in the shape of a millstone. Fruity, hazelnut flavors with savory grass & herbal undertones from the alpine pastures the cows roam. Some people use this to make Raclette. Pair with a fruity Beaujolais or wine from the Savoie. SPOTLIGHT ON SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE Savigny-Les-Beaune is off the beaten path, making for some great values in Burgundy. “Typically, Savigny is more Sunday-night-with-roast-chicken than let’s-impress-the-client, which is not to say that it’s simple. The better Savigny rouges, particularly the premier crus, can be extremely complex, and they can age and improve for years, even decades.” -Jay McInerney Domaine Chandon du Briailles 2010, Savigny-les-Beaunes $40 Nadine de Nicolay moved her family from Paris in 1984 to take charge of her family’s neglected estate. She learned on the job, converting to organic & biodynamic practices, transforming an undistinguished estate into a very good one. “A deeply pitched nose of Savigny-style earth, floral notes and fresh dark berry fruit aromas precedes the clean, fresh and vibrant flavors that are shaped by ripe tannins.” -Burghound Simon Bize Les Bourgeots 2011, Savigny-les-Beaunes $42 “For many years, the Bize Savignys have been an insider’s secret for budget-conscious connoisseurs.” -Wall Street Journal Patrick Bize uses low yields which makes for extra concentrated wines, and picks later for extra ripeness. His wines have a signature ‘wildness’ with dark fruit and earth in spades. Pair with duck confit.

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Monday, Feb 16 2015

Paris Grocery seattle February 12, 2015

Bonjour Mes Amis, Since I don’t work Saturdays, I wish you all bonne Saint Valentin. “Wine and cheese are ageless companions, like aspirin and aches, or June and moon, or good people and noble ventures …” -M.F.K. Fisher A Bientot, Catherine _________________ Smoked Duck Salad with Walnuts & Raspberries by Marcia Kiesel 1/2 pound Grimaud Farms smoked Muscovy duck breast—skin and fat removed and reserved, breast thinly sliced crosswise 1/2 cup walnuts 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar 2 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 small shallot, very finely chopped 3 tablespoons walnut oil 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Salt Freshly ground black pepper 6 ounces frisée lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces (6 cups) 3 cups packed torn Boston lettuce 1 cup raspberries Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the duck skin and fat in a pie plate and bake for about 15 minutes, until crisp. Drain on paper towels, then break into pieces. Meanwhile, spread the walnuts in a pie plate and toast for 8 minutes; coarsely chop. In a large bowl, mix the vinegar with the mustard and shallot. Gradually whisk in the walnut and vegetable oils. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add the frisée, Boston lettuce and walnuts and toss to coat. Top the salad with the raspberries, sliced duck breast and cracklings and serve. SWEET VALENTINE’S GIFTS FOR COOKS & FRANCOPHILES! Bovetti Crystallized Rose/Violette Chocolat Bars $9.49 Better than a bouquet of flowers? Definitely tastier! Made by a fair trade organization in France…  The Rose was picked as one of the top ten chocolate bars in the world by Gayot. Pok Pok Thaan $11.99 5 lb log  Pok Pok’s Thaan is the Thai equivalent of binchotan. My husband  & I fell in love with Yakitori made with this special long-burning charcoal–restaurants in Japan advertise by displaying the charcoal outside.   Thaan charcoal is natural, Thai-Style binchotan extruded log charcoal. It is a long burning, clean and natural alternative to commercial charcoal briquettes. It is made sustainably from orchard grown rambutan fruit wood, which imparts a very mild flavor, letting your grilled food speak for themselves.  Compared to black charcoal, Binchotan will burn many times longer and when finishing grilling, you should extinguish the charcoal so you can use it again. I begged our distributor to bring some in because buying it online turned out to be super-expensive due to the cost of shipping. Jean Vier Bread Basket $59 This ingenious bread basket was woven in the Basque country. Made of linen & cotton, it has a removable pouch containing Basque cherry pits. You microwave the pouch for 2 minutes, place it in the cloth basket et Voila! Pull the drawstring & your bread stays warm. ______________________________ CHEESE OF THE WEEK Roquefort Papillon Black Label $22.99 lb Roquefort is not just something to put in your salad dressing. Papillon’s black label sets it apart from the rest as the highest quality. This sweet & spicy blue is made with raw sheep’s milk and is spectacular with Sauternes. __________________________________ White Toque Escargot Bourgogne dozen $11.99 Made in one of Burgundy’s oldest snail factories. Wild Helix snails are cooked in an aromatic bouillon, frozen in-shell with snail butter, ready to bake. Pop these in the oven & your kitchen will be perfumed with garlicky goodness. __________________________________ Miraval Rose 2013, Provence $25.99 One of our customers loved this so much he bought two cases… “(made from cinsault, grenache, syrah and rolle): Pale orange. Fresh tangerine, strawberry and white flowers on the fragrant, mineral-accented nose. Silky and precise, offering tangy red fruit flavors that are lifted and sharpened by a white pepper nuance. Finishes clean, nervy and long, with excellent clarity and lingering minerality. This suave wine has the power to work with rich foods and the energy to give pleasure by itself.” -90 points, Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar Chateau d’Arlay Macvin du Jura Blanc, $38 Jura wines are fascinating… 50% Chardonnay, 50% Savgnin with 1/3 marc-brandy, matured in oak for 3 years. This region lies between Burgundy & Switzerland: “a tiny wine growing region with huge personality”. Made in a similar process to sherry, under a flor-like strain of yeast. Hazelnut, raisin, tea & honeysuckle flavors lend itself to pairing with chicken in a Jura cream sauce or trout with almonds. “Intense, unctuously textured, full-bodied effort revealing a slight sweetness and loads of glycerin because of its white liqueur component. It is nearly impossible to describe these wines other than to say they are very intense, wonderful in a freakish way, and should be show-stoppers at any dinner party.” – Wine Advocate, 94 points! BANYULS If ever there was a wine that loved chocolate, this is it. Called ‘the French cousin of port’, Banyuls is a Grenache-based fortified wine made in the Languedoc-Roussillon. Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage 2009 $19.99 “…begins with nice aromas of dense blackberry, vanilla, plum, licorice and a little cinnamon. The wine tastes of sweet blackberry jam, caramel and vanilla and features a good silky texture plus a thick and rich mouthfeel. It ends with a nice burst of spice on the delicious and long finish which has lingering chocolate and blackberry notes. This one tastes similar to Port, but perhaps a little softer. Really just a delicious dessert wine that is simply decadent with a good dark chocolate dessert.” -Reverse Wine Snob Chapoutier Banyuls 2008 $25.99 “This satiny grenache noir is filled with sweet cherry flavors – from the dark flesh to the almond-flavored pit. It’s fresh and concentrated without the least bit of jamminess, hints of hay and stony minerality keeping it true to the locality. For a square of dark chocolate – nothing more is needed. ” -91 points, Wine & Spirits Domaine la Tour Vielle Banyuls Reserva $28.99 35% Grenache, 35% Grenache Gris, 30% Carignan from vineyards overlooking the sea, constantly exposed to fierce winds. “Over the past quarter century, La Tour Vieille has built up an impressive reputation, and their most recent releases demonstrate that they are among the elite estates of Roussillon. The late-bottled La Tour Vieille Banyuls Reserva leads with cocoa powder, cardamom, vanilla and caramel, comes to the palate with an unusual combination of candied raspberry, chocolate, and brown spices, and finishes with impressive persistence…” -Wine Advocate COLLECTOR’S CORNER Domaine Huet le Haut Lieu Sec 2013, Vourvray $29.99 This wine is a sheer miracle. In 2013, Vouvray was pummeled by Mother Nature with severe Spring frosts & a fluke hailstorm on June 17th. Berthome’s team managed tiny yields of perfect grapes, nevertheless. “This is very expressive, with chutney, warmed apple, piecrust, orange blossom and honeysuckle notes all woven together and carrying through the quinine-fueled finish. Shows superb density and length for the vintage. Best from 2015 through 2022.” 92 points, Wine Spectator Vins de Vienne Les Barcillants 2010, Cornas  “This is powerfully rendered, with dark ganache, pastis, plum sauce and blackberry pâte de fruit notes, given definition and drive from the well-embedded accents of charcoal and briar that course through the finish. Shows serious, tongue-coating intensity without becoming tiring. Best from 2014 through 2026”-94 points, Wine Spectator

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Monday, Feb 9 2015

Paris Grocery seattle February 5, 2015

Bonjour Mes Amis, Romance is France’s middle name, so I hope you’ll be paying us a visit this week. I’ll be at Paris five days a week while the lovely Kelsey travels in France for six weeks. So please come by & say hello… And bonne Saint Valentin! “I only drink champagne on two occasions, when I’m in love, and when I’m not…” -Coco Chanel A Bientot, Catherine SEARED FOIE GRAS WITH PINEAU-GRAPEFRUIT REDUCTION adapted from Laurent Tourondel’s recipe, as it appeared in Leite’s Culinaria The original recipe calls for late harvest Chardonnay, but I chose Pineau des Charentes in its place. This delicious aperitif from the Cognac region is affordable enough to cook with, and bien sur, delightful to drink.  For the apple purée 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced 3/4 cup dry white wine 3 tablespoons quince jelly or quince paste For the foie gras and reduction 6 pieces grade A (4 ounces each) foie gras  Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cup freshly squeezed grapefruit juice 1/2 cup Pineau des Charentes Blanc Zest from 1/2 orange, preferably organic 1/4 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 1/2 teaspoons unsalted butter For the assembly 6 slices (1/2-inch thick) brioche 1/2 cup mâche (optional) DIRECTIONS Make the apple purée 1. Melt the butter in a medium sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter begins to foam, add the apples, wine, and jelly. Cook, stirring frequently, until the apples are tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a blender and purée until smooth. Set aside at room temperature. Cook the foie gras and reduction 2. Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Using a paring a knife, gently score the foie gras slices with a diagonal pattern on 1 side. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place 3 slices in the pan and sear until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat slightly, turn the foie gras over, and cook for an additional 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside to rest. Wipe the pan clean and repeat with the remaining 3 slices of foie gras. 3. Pour the excess pan drippings out of the pan, leaving just a thin film in the pan and reserving 3 tablespoons of drippings to add to the reduction. Deglaze the pan with the grapefruit juice over medium-high heat, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Simmer until the juice is reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the Chardonnay, orange zest, rosemary, and the reserved pan drippings and simmer for 1 minute. Add the butter, remove from the heat, and whisk until well combined. Season the reduction to taste with salt and pepper. Assemble and serve 4. Preheat the broiler. 5. Using a 3-inch round cookie cutter, cut the brioche into rounds and place them on a baking sheet. Toast the brioche rounds under the broiler until golden brown, about 1 minute per side. 6. Place the brioche toasts in the center of 6 serving plates. Lay the foie gras slices on top of the brioche. Spoon the apple purée around the foie gras, drizzle with the grapefruit reduction, and, if desired, scatter the mâche leaves over the top. WINE TO GO WITH FOIE Château Guiraud Sauternes 2009 $60 “This blend of 65 percent Sémillon and 35 percent Sauvignon Blanc comes from 35- to 40-year-old vines on a 316-acre property co-owned since 2006 by Robert Peugeot (of Peugeot automobiles), Olivier Bernard (Domaine de Chevalier), Stephan von Neipperg (Canon-La Gaffelière and others) and Xavier Planty, the estate’s longtime general manager. Planty, who oversees winemaking, strives for low yields; the vines usually average nine-tenths of a ton per acre, about half the legal limit in Sauternes. While 2009 was a banner year for red Bordeaux, the region’s sweet wines are impressive, too—the best vintage since 2001.” -96 points, Wine Spectator Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes 2007 $67  “Dried lemon and floral aromas lead to loads of botrytis spice and bitter lemon peel in this young, full-bodied sweetie, with hints of lively lime and honey. Medium sweet. Very intense. Best after 2014.” -95 points, Wine Spectator -95 points, Robert Parker CHEESE OF THE WEEK Pierre Robert $26.99 lb This cheese LOVES Champagne. Our richest triple creme, Pierre Robert is aged two weeks longer longer than Brillat-Savarin which imparts an even creamier texture–hard to believe that’s possible! Tastes like whipped butter with lick of Normandy salt. WE LOVE MACARONS!!! A box of chocolates is nice & all, but Macarons are what warms our heart. I’m thrilled to be receiving a Valentine’s Day batch of macarons from Luv Macarons. Sold singly for $2 each, or we have a limited number of cute assorted gift packs for $10.99. This week’s flavors: Salted Caramel, Lemon, Raspberry, Strawberry, Vanilla, Rose, Lavender, Pistachio, Chocolate Cherry And for the chef, we have Macaron cookbooks & fillings which make for a sweet gift Macarons: Authentic French Cookie Recipes from the Macaron Cafe by Cecile Cannone $14.95 I Love Macarons by Hisako Ogita $14.95 Macarons: Chic & Delicious French Treats by Annie Rigg $15.95 L’Epicurean Raspberry, Lemon & Pistachio Curd $9.99 4.4 oz; $13.99 11.3 oz  Pre de Provence Soaps We just got a new shipment in of these luxurious Shea Butter enriched  soaps made in Provence, naturellement. Lavender & Rose scented Hearts $4.99 Private Collection: Cardamom, Absinthe & Sandalwood; Rhubarb & Mint Tea $8.99 Guest Soaps $11.99 Poterie Not Freres Cassoles $149 This is the ultimate Valentine’s gift! Poterie Not Freres is THE source of authentic cassoles. Made by the Not family since 1830, using local clay from Gascony. _______________________________ CHAMPAGNE! Henriot “Souverain” Brut Champagne $45 ” This rich Champagne offers notes of roasted hazelnut, brioche and smoke, layered with vibrant acidity and a fine mousse to create an overall sense of finesse. The bright hints of black currant, poached quince, pickled ginger and licorice are fresh and juicy, lingering on the finish. Drink now through 2023.” 92 points Wine Spectator Stephane Coquillette “Carte d’Or” Brut Premier Cru Champagne $47 Made by a small family producer where everything is done by hand. “A bold Champagne, with broad shoulders and racy acidity, displaying layers of ripe blackberry and black cherry fruit, malt and wheat toast, with hints of smoke and vanilla. Despite its power, this is well-meshed and elegant, offering much to think about with each sip. The finish is juicy and floral.” -92 points Wine Spectator Pierre Gimmonet  1er Cru Blanc de Blancs $48 ‘Pale gold with a frothy mousse. Highly aromatic bouquet of tangerine, pear, minerals, sweet butter and lees; smells like a Puligny-Montrachet. Fine, focused and pure, offering spicy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a strong mineral bite. The minerality gains strength on the finish, which is spicy and strikingly energetic. This pure, graceful Champagne would be perfect with oysters.’ 92 Points, Stephen Tanzer Dosnon & Lepage Recolte Rose Brut Champagne $62 Seriously pretty package, seriously delicious sparkling rose. “(100% pinot noir):  Light, bright orange.  Redcurrant, orange zest, jasmine and a hint of dusty minerals on the seductively perfumed nose.  Juicy, vibrant and taut, offering powerful, spice- and mineral-accented flavors of red berries and candied orange peel.  Silky and expansive on a finish resounding with orange and mineral notes.” -93 points, International Wine Cellar

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Monday, Feb 2 2015

Paris Grocery seattle January 29, 2015

Bonjour mes Amis,  Spring is coming! The daffodils in our wine barrels out front are starting to bud, and this Monday, February 2nd is La Chandeleur.  And in France forget about groundhogs. The French predict the climate of the coming year by making Crepes. There are two ways to do it: 1. Hold a coin in your left hand while you flip the crepe pan with your right. If all goes well, get ready for a lucky year. 2. Toss your first crepe on top of a high cupboard & leave it there for the year. (That would never fly in my house…) Filling/topping ideas: Alsa Vanilla Sugar & Paysan Breton Butter Confitur de Cerises Noires & Creme Fraiche Chevre & Favols Confiture Tomate Verte us Citron Sauteed Apples & Sea Salt Caramel Cream Jambon de Bayonne & St. Nectaire And don’t forget some Cidre to wash it all down. We carry French ciders from Normandy, Pays Basque–even an Ice Cider! A Bientot, Catherine Reynolds PUREE OF SALT COD, POTATOES, AND WALNUT OIL (Morue a la Rouergate) from The Southwest Cooking of France by Paula Wolfert $39.95 This version of Brandade gets the special southwestern touch of walnut oil… Makes 4 1/2 to 5 cups, serves 6 to 8 1 lb boneless salt cod (whole fillets are always 10% off) 1 3/4 cup milk Herb bouquet: 3 sprigs parsley, 1 sprig thyme, & 1 imported bay leaf tied together with string 1 onion, quartered 1 large garlic clove, halved 2 to 3 black peppercorns, freshly cracked 3/4 lb baking (russet) potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks 1/2 to 3/4 cup imported walnut oil 3 eggs: 1 raw, 2 hard-boiled 1 tsp finely chopped fresh garlic 1 tsp finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Finely ground white pepper White wine vinegar, sherry vinegar, or fresh lemon juice 24 triangles of crustless bread, toasted or fried in olive oil, then rubbed with garlic A day in advance, soak the cod in a large basin of cold water to cover for 18 to 24 hours, or until the fish is swollen, changing the water at least 3 times & adding 1 cup of milk for the last soaking. Rinse the cod; cut into 3 or 4 pieces. Place in a large saucepan and cover with fresh cold water. Add the herb bouquet, onion, garlic clove, and peppercorns. Heat slowly until the first white foam appears. Remove from the heat at once; cover and let stand for 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the salt cod pieces to a paper towel-lined plate. Reserve the liquid for cooking the potatoes. Carefully remove any bones and hard skin; flake the flesh finely. Keep warm. Meanwhile, cook the potatoes in the poaching water. Drain off the cooking liquid. (This broth can be used for a soup.) Dry the potatoes over low heat, then immediately mash them until smooth, using a ricer, a potato masher, or the wire beaters of an electric mixer. Beat in 2 Tbs of the walnut oil, the raw egg, and the chopped garlic. Beat until smooth. Keep warm. Meanwhile, scald the remaining 3/4 cup milk in a small saucepan and heat the remaining walnut oil in a second saucepan. Place the flaked cod and a little of the warm milk in a  food processor. Pulse on and off once. Gradually add the warmed oil and milk alternately, pulsing without overworking the cod. The mixture should feel light but still gritty. Scrape the fish into the mashed potatoes. Sieve the hard-boiled eggs into the mixture, then add the parsley. Gently but thoroughly mix until well-blended and light. Adjust the seasoning with white pepper and a few drops of vinegar or lemon juice to taste. Serve warm in a wide dish surrounded with the garlic toast triangles. NOTE TO THE COOK This spread can be made up to 6 hours in advance. If you do so, reserve a few tablespoons warm milk for reheating. Mix together over low heat. CHEESE OF THE WEEK Trois Laits $32.99 lb From the remote Bethmale valley of the Pyrenees where cows, goats, and sheep are raised. As you can guess by the name, all three milks are combined in this rare version of Bethmale cheese. Roasted nuts & beefy notes with an herbaceous, almost oniony tang comes from the personality of each milk. Loves Banyuls or Muscat de Rivesalte. NEW FLAVORS!  Pok Pok Som Turmeric Drinking Vinegar  Pok Pok Som Pomegranate Drinking Vinegar  Pok Pok Som Thai Basil Drinking Vinegar  $13.99 each The latest addition to our Pok Pok drinking vinegars. Combine with sparkling water (6:1 ratio) and add a squeeze of lime for a refreshing non-alcoholic drink. I love the idea of combining them with coconut water. Try the Turmeric in a Masala Moonshine cocktail and the Thai Basil in a Gin Rickey. JAJA: GREAT EVERYDAY DRINKERS  Domaine le Clos des Lumieres Grenache Blanc 2013, Pays du Gard $7.99 This flirty little wine is the perfect house white. Fresh and floral, yet rich and round. Pair with an herb-roasted chicken or just enjoy this sunny day sipper on its own. How about ordering a case for your maison? Vignerons de Saumur Les Pouches 2012, Saumur $9.99 Does the sunshine have you feeling springy? Pop open this delicious white. 100% unoaked Chenin Blanc from a coop devoted to making better wine at a lower cost. Clean & bright, meyer lemon & grapefruit, minerals with a touch of honey. Great with Asian food or chevre. Les Heretiques 2013, VdP de’Herault $9.99 Winemaker Andre Iche inherited a 13th century castle & estate in Minervois. At first he sold to the local co-op, but a Burgundian winemaker tasted the wine and convinced him to bottle his production. 100% Carignan, of which 1/2 is fermented in barrel. Sweet cassis & raspberry jam, with a slightly rustic layer of spice and earth. Domaine Borie de Maurel Esprit d’Automne 2012, Minervois $13.99 Winemaker Michel Escanle left a life of sailing behind to be inland with his wife. He borrowed money to buy 5 hectares, a wine cellar & an ageing house in the Languedoc. His vines cling to the rocky slopes of the Black Mountain. Scents of black olives & tobacco mingle with smooth morello cherries, mint and licorice. Pair with couscous for a southern French feast. La Chaussynette 2011, Vin de France $14.99 This is the ‘estate secret’ of Chateauneuf house Mas de Boislauzon, at a third of the price. Brambly nose with raspberry, fig and kalamata olive notes. The rich fruit is magical with braised meat & lamb dishes. Chateau Magneau Bordeaux Blanc 2012, Graves $15.99 “The biggest revolution has occurred in the quality of Graves dry white wines. Graves white are now more aromatic, fresh and well made; some of them with a distinctly exotic edge, with tropical fruit and a New World tang.” -The Bordeaux Atlas This white Bordeaux comes from an ancient property run by the Ardurat family. Their philosophy is “quality before profit” and it shows. 10% Muscadelle provides an inviting bouquet, Semillon imparts ripe stonefruits and rich texture while the Sauvignon Blanc keeps things lively. Pair with halibut in a Beurre Blanc or sushi.  Chateau Bourbon la Chapelle 2011, Medoc $16.99 A second property of Chateau Castera, one of the oldest vineyards in the Medoc. 85% Cab with 15% Merlot that spends 6 months in barrel. Black currants with tobacco & cedar, plus soft and silky tannins. COLLECTOR’S CORNER Roger Sabon Prestige 2012, Chateauneuf de Pape $84 “Older vine Grenache, which makes up 70% of the blend, holds the key here. The balance is shared between Syrah and Mourvèdre. Didier is pragmatic when it comes to élevage, using a combination of demi-muid, barrique and (mostly) foudre to match the specific requirements of the vintage. Accomplished and long, with plush fruit in the middle, this is an outstanding Prestige.” Simon Field MW 93-95 points, Wine Advocate Domaine Ferrand 2010, Chateauneuf de Pape $88 “This exotic red boasts notes of black truffles, roasted meats, charcuterie, incense, blackberries and black cherry liqueur intermixed with hints of roasted herbs and licorice. Full-bodied, dense and as concentrated as the estate’s extraordinary 2007, the spectacular 2010 needs 2-4 years of cellaring, and will age gracefully over the following two decades.” -96+ points, Robert Parker

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