Paris Grocery seattle

February 19, 2015

Bonjour Mes Amis,

This week I was inspired by the region of Chablis, a sleepy town that is the “Golden Gate” of Burgundy. Chablis is the land of Dijon mustard, Epoisses & Gougeres–mais oui!

I recently put together a cheese plate for Virginie Blackmoor of French Truly, a native of southeast France who runs a lovely series of immersion events here in Seattle. “Through role-play, conversations, games, movies, documentaries (all of these with food and drinks), lunch specials and field trips, we have so much fun, we forget we are working.”

Check out her upcoming Become a little bit French 4 week course!”
where you practice going shopping
explore French poetry
learn what to pack, how to make travel accomodations
how to ask for directions, check into a hotel

à la vôtre !
Catherine Reynolds

Escarole Salad with Duck Confit, Comté, and Walnuts from Saveur

The latest issue of Saveur has a feature article on the wine & food of Chablis. This recipe originally comes from winemakers Alice and Olivier de Moor, and Saveur substitutes duck confit for duck gizzards.

SERVES 4-6

INGREDIENTS

  • 2 (5-oz.) confit duck legs
  • 2 tbsp. white wine vinegar
  • 1½ tbsp. Dijon mustard
  • ½ small shallot, minced
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • ⅓ cup olive oil
  • 1 large head escarole, leaves torn into bite-size pieces, rinsed, and dried
  • 4 oz. Comté cheese, cut into ¼” pieces
  • ⅓ cup walnuts, toasted

INSTRUCTIONS

Heat duck legs in a 12″ skillet over medium until fat is rendered and duck is crisp, about 15 minutes. Transfer duck to a cutting board and let cool, then coarsely shred meat, discarding bones; reserve fat for another use, if you like. Whisk vinegar, mustard, shallot, salt, and pepper in a bowl. While whisking, slowly drizzle in oil until vinaigrette is emulsified. Arrange escarole on a serving platter; top with shredded duck, cheese, and walnuts. Drizzle with vinaigrette and toss to combine, or serve with vinaigrette on the side.

WINE PAIRING

Jean Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis 2013 $24.99

The best Chablis grows on a prehistoric sea of fossilized shells–Chablis is Chardonnay with an undeniable sense of place. The Droin’s have been producing wine in Chablis for over 400 years, and their style is to strive for absolute transparency in their wine. This is a gorgeous Chablis that combines buttery richness with racy chalk notes. Serve with the above salad, oysters or Epoisses.

CHEESE OF THE WEEK

Abondance, Haut-Savoie $19.99 lb

This classic raw milk cheese from Savoie takes its name from the Abondance breed of cow. The cheese is made in the shape of a millstone. Fruity, hazelnut flavors with savory grass & herbal undertones from the alpine pastures the cows roam. Some people use this to make Raclette. Pair with a fruity Beaujolais or wine from the Savoie.

SPOTLIGHT ON SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE
Savigny-Les-Beaune is off the beaten path, making for some great values in Burgundy. “Typically, Savigny is more Sunday-night-with-roast-chicken than let’s-impress-the-client, which is not to say that it’s simple. The better Savigny rouges, particularly the premier crus, can be extremely complex, and they can age and improve for years, even decades.” -Jay McInerney

Domaine Chandon du Briailles 2010, Savigny-les-Beaunes $40
Nadine de Nicolay moved her family from Paris in 1984 to take charge of her family’s neglected estate. She learned on the job, converting to organic & biodynamic practices, transforming an undistinguished estate into a very good one.
“A deeply pitched nose of Savigny-style earth, floral notes and fresh dark berry fruit aromas precedes the clean, fresh and vibrant flavors that are shaped by ripe tannins.” -Burghound

Simon Bize Les Bourgeots 2011, Savigny-les-Beaunes $42

“For many years, the Bize Savignys have been an insider’s secret for budget-conscious connoisseurs.” -Wall Street Journal
Patrick Bize uses low yields which makes for extra concentrated wines, and picks later for extra ripeness. His wines have a signature ‘wildness’ with dark fruit and earth in spades. Pair with duck confit.

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