Three new reds from smaller, up-and-coming appellations. (Hint: that means terrific wines for cheap.)

Wine @ PG

Georges Duboeuf  Morgon Jean Descombes 2009

Sorry to keep beating the “OMG vintage of a lifetime” drum regarding the 2009 Beaujolais vintage but: Here’s yet another delicious example at a pretty incredible price. We’re all really loving wines from Morgon lately, too. “Light tannins and a smoky mineral note frame this lush red, which displays layers of black cherry, raspberry ganache, and tea rose flavors. There’s a spicy thread running through the wine, leading to a fresh, firm finish. 93 points.”  —Wine Spectator ($14.99)

Domaine Les Aphillanthes Vin de Pays de Vaucluse 2009

This lovely and light-bodied red features a good mix of cherry, cherry pit, and red licorice notes with a juicy finish. Wines from the small area of Vaucluse (located in Provence, on the border of the Rhône) are smart little table wines; many top producers from border areas have been buying parcels of land there so they can have more freedom to experiment with other varietals or biodynamic techniques. This one’s refreshing enough to sip as an aperitif, but also stands up to a game day meal of roasted chicken and frites. 86 points Wine Spectator ($11.99)

Château de L’Estang Côtes de Castillon 2004

Jefe couldn’t believe the fantastic value that this Bordeaux presented; he bought a whole case (we have really smart wine reps). This blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc comes from an up-and-coming appellation on the right bank of the Dordogne river east of Saint Emilion. Pleasing berry and mineral notes, and a price you can’t beat! ($9.99)

Food @ PG

Oh, Canada.

Just in from Nova Scotia: Wild Caught Boned Salted Cod ($15.99/1 lb box). Here’s a recipe for brandade that was originally printed in the New York Times for Passover.

Brandade de Morue

By Alex Witchel; adapted from Nicholas Lemann

Time: 40 minutes

Yield: About 3 cups.

1 whole head garlic

1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, more as needed

2 Idaho or other starchy potatoes, peeled

1 pound boned dried salt cod, soaked according to package directions, or pre-soaked salt cod

1 onion, peeled and quartered

2 cups whole milk, or as needed

2 large eggs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place garlic on a square of foil, rub with 1/2 tablespoon olive oil to coat it, and wrap securely in foil. Roast until cloves are soft, about 30 minutes. Allow to cool, remove cloves from their skins, then mash cloves with a fork.

2. While garlic roasts, prepare potatoes and cod: Place potatoes in a saucepan, cover with water, and boil until tender, about 20 minutes. Place cod in a saucepan, add onion, and barely cover with milk. Place over medium-low heat and simmer until cod flakes easily, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove cod with a slotted spoon, transferring it to a plate to cool; leave milk at a very low simmer.

3. Drain potatoes; remove onion from milk and discard. Return potatoes to pot and mash them. Immediately and quickly break eggs into hot potatoes and stir vigorously until fully incorporated. Beat in 2 or 3 tablespoons simmering milk until mixture is very thick and smooth. Add one tablespoon olive oil, or as desired, for flavor and texture. Add garlic (it may not all be needed) and salt and pepper to taste.

4. Shred cooled cod as finely as possible, and add to potato mixture. Adjust milk, oil, garlic and salt and pepper as desired. Add parsley and mix well. Mound in a shallow serving bowl or on a platter. Serve at room temperature with toasty baguette or peasant bread, if desired.

We’re now packing out olives to order from our deli case, so you can get just as much as you need.

Black Olives with Herbs

These oil-cured black olives with herbes de provence have a dense texture and a full, earthy flavor. So savory—I think they’re the perfect olive to have with aperitifs.

French Country Olive Mix

A colorful blend of green, pink, and black olives, as well as lupini beans and bell peppers, are tossed in a lively marinade of spices, pepper, and vinegar. Perfect alongside antipasto plates and a cold Belgian beer!

Thanks for reading, see you soon!
Rachel

and
Steve Winston and Sharon Baden
Owners, Paris Grocery