Food (& Cheese!) @ PG
“The onion is the truffle of the poor.”
French Onion Soup (Adapted from Bistro Cooking by Patricia Wells)
I find this version one of the lightest onion soups I’ve tried; perhaps it’s because the onions are roasted first. Be sure to use good white sweet onions (yellow onions can turn bitter). If this is likely to become a family favorite, it’s worthwhile to invest in traditional onion soup bowls. Makes 2 servings.
1 very large (1 pound) white onion (such as Bermuda), thinly sliced
10 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup dry sherry
32 oz unsalted chicken stock, preferably homemade
2-4 slices crusty baguette
2 cups (about 5 ounces) grated Beaufort cheese
1. Heat olive oil and butter in large sauté pan. When butter has melted, add onions, garlic, thyme, and bay leaf. Cook slowly over very low heat for at least 30 minutes until onion is very soft and most of the liquid is absorbed. Add the sherry, turn the heat to high, and simmer for a few minutes until most of the sherry has been absorbed.
2. Turn on oven broiler. Bring the stock to a simmer in a large nonreactive saucepan.
3. Evenly distribute the cooked onions between 2 soup bowls. Pour in the simmering stock. Place a round or two of bread on top of each; evenly distribute the grated cheese. Place the soup bowls under the broiler and broil just until the cheese is melted (2 or 3 minutes). Serve immediately.
Wine @ PG
St. Cosme Little James’ Basket Press Rouge NV ($12.99)
Another example of a high-end producer (in this case, Louis Barroul, a 14th generation producer of Gigondas) making a delightful low-end wine that we can’t resist. This 100% Grenache is made using the solera system; it’s bright and juicy with moderate tannins. A great, easy-drinking wine!
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie “Cuvee Alouette” Bourgueil 2009 ($14.99)
Another example of a supremely drinkable 100% Cabernet Franc. This Bourgueil exhibits pure fruit flavors, with a delicious earthiness. Low tannins make it quaffable but it still offers great length and power.
2008 Philippe Raimbault “Apud Sariacum” Sancerre ($22.99)
There is no more beautiful expression of Sauvignon Blanc than the wines of Sancerre. The cool climate, chalky soil, and passion of the small producers bring this grape to the height of its aromatic, austere elegance. Philippe Raimbault, a ninth-generation producer, puts enormous care into his small family of wines. This Sancerre has flavors of limestone, crushed rocks, and a heady, enticing florality that is nevertheless retrained. An excellent, refreshing texture for a pure finish.
Craves @ PG
We love ceramics from Graupera; the Spanish Table offers many of their pots, tagines, and casserole dishes large and small. New to Paris Grocery are these stout soup bowls ($11.99), perfect for individual servings of French onion soup. The quality of the glazes and materials means they’ll stand up to heating, dishwashing, and even microwaving for many years to come; we also love how these ceramics tend to look better with a bit of use (we think food even TASTES better when cooked in well-used ceramics).
Gifted @ PG
This week’s recipe came from this classic, easy-to-follow book of bistro favorites by Patricia Wells. She’s an incredible authority on French cuisine, and this book offers up some choice bistro-culture knowledge as well. I want to try Oxtail Terrine (pg. 125), Leek Terrine with Truffles (pg. 82), and Zucchini Crepes (pg. 92). Her recipe for Riz au Lait (pg. 250) looks promising, as well; it calls for orange and lemon zest which always makes things taste better.
Thanks for reading, see you soon!
Steve Winston and Sharon Baden
Owners, Paris Grocery